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Section 2 – Basic Concepts

Tuning and Stringing the Dilruba or Esraj

by David Courtney working tools

Tuning the Dilruba
STRINGING AND TUNING THE DILRUBA AND ESRAJ
Section 1 – Introduction
Section 2 – Basic Concepts of Tuning
Section 3 – Overview of Strings
Section 4 – Dilruba/Esraj Strings
Section 5 – Tools
Section 6 – Stringing the Base
Section 7 – Stringing the Tuning Pegs
Section 8 – Tightening the Strings

This page will dis­cuss the philosophic and con­ceptual is­sues in­vol­ved in tuning the dilruba, esraj, and tar-shehanai.  It is im­pos­sible to con­sider the topic of tuning un­til one has a clear idea as to what you want the instrument to do, and what you want it to sound like.  When you put a string on your instrument, the string does not know, or care, what it is.  A par­ti­cu­lar string does not have any way of knowing whether it is Sa, Pa, Ma, or what.  The string does not possess music.  The string does not have any aesthetic quality.  Just like the painter has to decide if a par­ti­cu­lar shade of green is reminiscent of grass; the musician must decide if a par­ti­cu­lar string is best suited for a par­ti­cu­lar mus­ical pur­pose.

One would think that this should be a trivial task; but it is not.  The nature of Indian music is such that these con­cepts will change from one piece to an­other.  Fur­ther­more, there will in­evit­ably be differences in ar­tis­tic vision; such differences may arise from the genre that the instrument may be used in (e.g. shabad, film songs, gazal).  Differences may also stem from practical con­cerns such as whether one will be using the dilruba or esraj for solo or in accompaniment si­tua­tions.  For what­ever rea­sons, there will never be a “standard tuning”.

Although there will never be a standard tuning, there are only a few standard ap­proaches.  There­fore, if we turn our attention to ap­proach rather than an ac­tual tuning, our job be­comes easier.  Actually we are not even dealing with a sin­gle issue but a series of interdependent ap­proaches.  We may gen­erally say that the is­sues deal with the nature of intervals,  the num­ber and func­tion of the strings, and basic con­cepts of key.  Fur­ther­more, each of these topics must be con­si­dered ag­ainst the unforgiving benchmark of what is practical and what is not.

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Function of The Strings

The dilruba and esraj gen­erally have two classes of strings; each of which is fur­ther divided into two groups.  Here is a brief description.

At the highest level, there are the main strings and there are the sympathetic strings.  The main strings are de­fined by their ab­ility to be bowed.  They are located above the frets of the dilruba.  The sympathetic strings are located below the frets.  These cannot be bowed, but they contribute to the overall sound of the instrument.  These are both il­lus­tra­ted in the pic­ture below:

dilruba bridge
Notice the four strings on the top of the bridge and the 20 located in the lower sec­tion.

The sympathetic strings are the ones which cannot be bowed.  In the dilruba, they are located below the frets.  In the esraj they are above the frets, but run diagonally in a fash­ion that resists bowing.  They func­tion as a sort of non-electric reverb unit.  They produce the ef­fect by vibrating whenever the appropriate note is bowed on the main strings.  There are two classes of sympathetic strings; there are the ordi­nary sympathetics (a.k.a taraf, or tarafdar) and then there are the jawari strings.  The difference bet­ween them is to be seen in the small flat bridge that is located on the upper part of the neck.  This bridge is called the jawari.  It may appear to be flat at first, but upon closer ex­ami­nation, you will see that it has a gentle curve.  It is this contour which causes the bridge to slightly buzz, and thus ac­quire a slightly dif­fer­ent sound.  There is no standard as to how many jawari bridges will be on your instrument.  Sometimes there is one, some­times there are two, and some­times there are none at all.  The ordi­nary sympathetic strings (tarafdar) do not have the jawari, and consequently, do not have the same piercing sound.  The pur­pose of the jawari strings is to emphasise par­ti­cu­lar notes.

dilruba jawari
The small flat bridge is the jawari.

The main strings are also divided into two classes; there are the play­ing strings and there are the drone strings.  How­ever unlike the sympathetic strings, the distinction bet­ween the play­ing strings and drone strings is far less clear.  We are cer­tain that the first string is defin­itely the main play­ing string and the last string (string 4) is al­most al­ways a drone string.  How­ever, the func­tion of the se­cond and third strings are at times a bit vague.  The bottom line is that when we play and fret the strings they be­come play­ing strings and when we don’t fret them, they be­come drone strings.  I know this is very circular, and such circularity is a stamp of intellectual carelessness, how­ever it does underscore one impor­tant point.  Strings two, three, and four, can be what­ever you want them to be.


The Intervals

The most impor­tant con­sideration in our tuning, is what the mus­ical intervals bet­ween the strings are going to be.  In In­dian terms, we have to first decide whether we are going to tune any string such that it is Sa, Re Ga, etc.  It turns out that there are seve­ral com­mon ap­proaches.  Let us look at them in greater de­tail.

dilruba tuning #1 – In this tuning, the main play­ing string (string #1) will be tuned to Ma in the mandra saptak (lower octave).  The se­cond string will be set to Sa in the lower octave.  The third string will be set to Pa, two octaves lower, and the last string (#4) will be set to the Middle Sa.  This is the one that we followed in the “Quick Guides“.

All things con­si­dered it seems to be a fairly balanced ap­proach.  It gives a broad usable range from (High Ga or Ma) all the way down to Pa two octaves lower.  The range of the instrument is just slightly less than three octaves.  Fur­ther­more the drone is rich and balanced.

dilruba tuning #2 – This is just a variant of the previous tuning.  All the strings are tuned and treated in the same way as tuning # 1, except the third string is dropped down to Ma instead of the Pa.  This tuning may be used whenever the rag does not permit the use of Pa.  Common examples are Malkauns and Chandrakauns

dilruba tuning #3 – This is a very com­mon variant upon Tuning #1.  The only difference here is that the last string #4 is set to Pa instead of Sa.  This tuning seems to be mo­ti­va­ted more by practical measures rather than mus­ical phi­lo­sophy.  In order to tune the last drone strong to mid­dle Sa, it takes an ext­remely thin gauge wire.  Such gauges have not al­ways been practical in the past.  Tuning the string down to Pa below mid­dle Sa still gives a good rich drone, but may be implemented with a heavier (and more available) gauge string.

dilruba tuning #4 – This is merely Tuning #3 for rags which do not permit the use of Pa.

dilruba tuning #5 – This is a fairly com­mon tuning.  It is also very appropriate for beginners.  When new students are trying to wrap their minds around con­cepts such as drone strings vs. play­ing strings, the last two strings of this tuning are clearly dif­fer­entiated as be­ing drone strings.  Unfor­tunately, this tuning has the most limi­ted range, since only the first two strings can produce the melody.  The range of this tuning is just barely over 2 octaves!

dilruba tuning #6 – This is nothing more than Tuning #5 for rags which do not permit the Pa.

dilruba tuning #7 – This tuning has the distinction of having the greatest usable range of all the tunings.  For this tuning, all of the strings may be played for the melody.  The pre­sence of the heavy gauge 4th string permits play­ing all the way down to Sa at two octaves below the mid­dle Sa!  There is only one drawback of this tuning.  The pre­sence of the heavy gauge 4th string, places the dilruba or esraj under con­si­der­able tension.  If there is a defect in design or fabrication of the instrument, this could cause problems.

dilruba tuning #8 – This is nothing more than tuning #7 that has the 4t string dropped from Pa to Ma.  This is appropriate for rags which do not permit the Pa

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Tuning the Sympathetic Strings

It is dif­fi­cult to make any statement as to the tuning of the sympathetic strings.  They are gen­erally tuned dif­fer­ently for each piece.  How­ever, if we look at the jawaris and non-jawari (tarafdar) strings separately, some ge­ne­ral con­si­dera­tions emerge.

JawariJawari strings are al­most al­ways tuned to notes of the rag.  This is fairly clear so we need not delve fur­ther into the mat­ter.

Non-Jawari Sympathetics (Tarafdar) – The tuning the non-jawari strings (tarafdar) is not strait-forward.  There are a myriad of technical, mus­ical, and practical con­si­dera­tions which need to be con­si­dered.

One com­mon ap­proach is to tune also the non-jawari sympathetic strings to the notes of the rag.  This often produces a tuning such as:

Lower octave: Pa Dha Ni Sa

Middle octave: Sa Re Ga ma Pa Dha Ni

Upper octave: Sa Re Ga Ma

This is an ap­proach that is often used.  On the positive side, this tuning produces the cleanest, clearest drone and resonance.  There are of course seve­ral practical con­si­dera­tions for this ap­proach.  The first is that you will have to modify the gauges of your strings.  The lower pitched strings will need to be heavier gauge while the higher pitched strings will need to be a lighter gauge.  The biggest disadvantage of this ap­proach is the inordinately long time re­quired to tune the instrument.  This ap­proach is very nice in si­tua­tions where the quality of the sound is paramount in importance, and the time available for tuning is unlimited (e.g. recording si­tua­tions).  Unfor­tunately, when you get in stage si­tua­tions, you will just not have enough time to retune for each piece.

There is an­other ap­proach which also tunes to the notes of the rag.  It may go something like this:

Lower octave –  Dha Ni

Middle Octave Sa, Sa, Re Ga Ga Ma Pa Pa Dha Ni Ni

Upper Octave Sa Sa

(please note that the de­ci­sion as to which notes to double up on are up to you.)

From a mus­ical stand­point this ap­proach re­pre­sents a wasted po­ten­tial and would at first appear to be in­fer­ior to the previously men­tioned ap­proach.  How­ever, it has a num­ber of practical advantages.  One advantage is that this ap­proach may be implemented by using the same gauge strings for all of the non-jawari sympathetics.  This is advantageous, be­cause the moment you start altering string gauges, you limit your future op­tions should you decide to uses a dif­fer­ent tuning.

This tuning also has the advantage that it requires slightly less time to retune bet­ween pieces.  This is es­pec­ially evident as you move back and forth bet­ween rags with both versions of a par­ti­cu­lar note (e.g., both komal and shuddha Ni in Khammaj).  Unfor­tunately there is still the problem of taking too much time in retuning bet­ween pieces.

Considering the practical con­si­dera­tions, my favourite tuning is as follows:

Lower octave – Pa Ni

Middle octave Sa Re Re Ga Ga Ma M’a Pa Dha Dha Ni Ni

Upper octave – S

This tuning is essen­tially chromatic.  On the negative side, the resonance of the instrument is not as clean as with the previous ap­proaches.  How­ever on the positive side, it is the only tuning that I have seen that will let you play the dilruba or esraj in real world, stage si­tua­tions.  With this tuning, you can move the whole key of the main strings up or down a half step with no problem.  You can switch the rag any num­ber of times and you only need to address the issue of the two strings in the lower octave (and of course the jawari strings).  The flexibility of this ap­proach has amply been appreciated by sarangi players who fre­quen­tly use a chromatic tuning of the sympathetic strings and refer to it as “Acchal That” (literally – “the immovable mode”).

All things con­si­dered, it seems that practical con­si­dera­tions are so overwhelming in ones de­ci­sions on tuning the non-jawari sympathetic strings, that the available time us­ually takes precedent over purely mus­ical con­si­dera­tions in determining exactly how these strings will be tuned.


Key

The key of the instrument is a very impor­tant con­sideration when determining how to string and tune the your instrument.  Unlike Western mus­ical in­stru­ments that are fairly standardised, the dilruba and the esraj are a bit flexible in this mat­ter.  We can say that most dilrubas are designed to work in a range from C-D.  C# seems to be ideal.  Does this mean that you have to string and tune your instrument speci­fically for this key?  No, you do not.  Your application will be the most impor­tant fac­tor in deciding how you will string and tune the instrument.

In real world si­tua­tions, you will be called upon to play at dif­fer­ent times and in dif­fer­ent keys.  There is al­ways the possibility of sim­ply getting a dif­fer­ent instrument for each key; but more often than not, you are just going to have to make do with what you have.  Here are a num­ber of ap­proaches and si­tua­tions that you might con­sider.

Solo – If you are only going to be play­ing your instrument as a solo instrument, then your choice of key is very clear.  You will tune it somewhere near C#.  This is where the instrument was designed and built to work best.

Re-Key Instrument – There are many si­tua­tions where you wish to permanently reset the key of your instrument.  Let us say that you are only going to use it to accompany a sin­gle per­son; this is a very com­mon rea­son to do this.  Let us say that for accompaniment rea­sons you wish to have one instrument set high for the accompaniment of wo­men and an­other set low for the accompaniment of men;  this would also require a permanent shift of key for one, or perhaps even both in­stru­ments.  Let us say that you do studio work, and the only way you can guarantee to be able to handle any job that comes your way is to have a dilruba or esraj in each of the five black keys (i.e., kali ek, kali do, kali teen, kali char, kali panch); again you are going to have to permanently retune your in­stru­ments.  These are all com­mon rea­sons to permanently reset your in­stru­ments key.  (I have two dilrubas, and one esraj, one which is set to C#, one is set to G, and one which is set to my wife’s key of A#).

This is all very well but what are the practical con­si­dera­tions in permanently changing the key on your key on your instrument.  Let us briefly look at some of these con­si­dera­tions.

If you wish to change anywhere from C-D, there is no need to rethink your string gages.

If you are wishing to tune down to a range of G-B, or up to D# to F, then you should give very careful con­sideration to your string gauges.

Completely changing the key of the instrument involves ext­remely ser­ious con­si­dera­tions and is something you should not just jump into.  In theory, any instrument can be re-strung to accommodate any pitch.  But as a practical mat­ter you need to look at variations in size to see what is appropriate.  If you are taking your instrument down in pitch, you might wish to purchase a larger instrument.  You may even wish to look at a taus (i.e., mayuri veena) if you really want a low range.

It is al­ways safer to re-key an instrument on the high aside rather than the low side.  Just re­mem­ber to remove all of the strings and replace them with a finer gauge.  This will allow you to increase the pitch with­out increasing the tension on the instrument.  There are of course practical limits as to how high you can take the instrument.  Already the gauges of some of the strings are ap­proaching the thinnest that are commercially available.  If you attempt to take it much higher, you might need to rethink your overall ap­proach to tuning.

Temporary Re-Keying your Instrument – The dilrubas and esrajs are accompaniment in­stru­ments.  It is not at all unusual to accompany one per­son this weekend and an­other per­son the next.  In such si­tua­tions the key is unlikely to change within the performance, but it may change from day-to-day or week-to-week.  In this si­tua­tion it is pos­sible to keep the sympathetics (both jawari and tarafdar) at a par­ti­cu­lar gauge, but switch out the main strings ac­cor­ding to the si­tua­tion.  This will require be­ing creative in the use and tuning of your sympathetic strings, but you have the advantage of be­ing able to temporarily set your instrument to an­other key by only changing a few strings.  In most case you can get by, just by switching out the first and se­cond strings and then be­ing creative as to what to do with strings three and four.

I have a dozen strings that I have care­fully es­tab­lished what each string will tune to, and I do not hesitate to do this when these si­tua­tions arise.  If the replacement strings are care­fully selected, you can change the strings and thus change the key with­out changing the tension exerted ag­ainst the bridge.  There­fore, if your sympathetic strings are tuned chromatically, you do not even need to do a major job of retuning them either.

Each Song in a Different Key– This is the most challenging si­tua­tion of all.  Unfor­tunately is also com­mon if one is play­ing for film songs.  For this si­tua­tion, there is sel­dom a requirement for anything more sub­stan­tial than a small interlude here and there.  In these cases, the easiest thing to do is to be a bit creative on the tuning of the sympathetics (e.g., chromatic tuning) and learn to play your Sa from frets other than the seventh fret.  All in all, it is a very workable solution to this problem.


Final Comments On Tuning

We have dis­cus­sed a great length the con­ceptual is­sues con­cerned with the tuning and the dilruba and esraj.  Not everybody is going to be faced with the same set of problems,  Not everybody will be faced with the same requirements, therefore not everybody will address the is­sues in the same way.  There has been no attempt to tell you what to do, but we have tried to lay out a num­ber of dif­fer­ent ap­proaches that should be con­si­dered.  Ultimately you should try all of them and see what works for you.

— PROCEED TO NEXT SECTION —

STRINGING AND TUNING THE DILRUBA AND ESRAJ
Section 1 – Introduction
Section 2 – Basic Concepts of Tuning
Section 3 – Overview of Strings
Section 4 – Dilruba/Esraj Strings
Section 5 – Tools
Section 6 – Stringing the Base
Section 7 – Stringing the Tuning Pegs
Section 8 – Tightening the Strings

Other Sites of Interest

How Does Music mean? Embodied Memories and the Politics of Affect in the Indian Sarangi

Bowed strings and sympathy, from violins to indian sarangis

Let's Know Music and Musical Instruments of India

Master Musicians of India: Hereditary Sarangi Players Speak

The North Indian Classical Sarangi: Its Technique and Role

Kamanche, the Bowed String Instrument of the Orient

The Acoustic Dynamics of Bridges of Bowed Instruments (An Outline of Comparative Instrument-Making)

The Natural History of the Musical Bow

Bharatiya Sangeet Vadya (Review)

Catalogue of Indian Musical Instruments

Fractal dimension analysis of audio signals for Indian musical instrument recognition

Natural synthesis of North Indian musical instruments

Recognition of Indian Musical Instruments with Multi-Classifier Fusion

The Tagore collection of Indian musical instruments

Improvement of Audio Feature Extraction Techniques in Traditional Indian Musical Instrument

East Indians musical instruments

Yantra kosha; or, A Treasury of the Musical Instruments of Ancient and of Modern India, and of Various Other Countries