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Rosin (a.k.a. Biroza)

For Bowed Indian Instruments

by David Courtney working tools

biroza (a.k.a. Rosin
Various Types of Rosin (Biroza)

Biroza, more com­monly known as rosin is a gum resin which is applied to the hairs of mus­ical bows which facili­tates the bowing of the string.  In this page we will look at it from the stand­point of In­dian bowed in­stru­ments such as sarangis, dilrubas and esrajs.  How­ever since these rosins are al­most al­ways for­mulated for Western in­stru­ments such as the violin, nu­mer­ous non-Indian references are unavoidable.

Now I know that a lot of peo­ple have ques­tions and con­cerns and wish me to get right to the khaas baat.  So here is the abbrev­iated version:

  1. Experimentation is the name of the game.  Exper­iment…. experi­ment….experi­ment!  When you are start­ing to learn, al­most any rosin will work, but as you gain exper­ience, you will develop your own prefer­ences.  There are nu­mer­ous formu­lations of rosin out there; if one type of rosin does not seem to be working for you, try an­other one.
     
  2. If you are having problems, it may have nothing to do with the brand of rosin you are using.  For insta­nce the strings and bow hair must be cleaned periodically, fail­ure to do so will create problems.  Check the gauge, material, surface char­acter­is­tics, and tension of your strings; these also have a very great influence on the bowing.
     
  3. New bows require extra rosin.  Once a bow has been broken in, it requires less rosin.  It is gen­erally not neces­sary to rosin your bow every time you play.
     
  4. The surface of a new block of rosin is not suitable for the bow.  Remember to roughen up the surface a bit before using it.  This may be done with sand­paper, a nail file, or even a coin.
     
  5. Rosin has a shelf life of about two years.  After that, it starts to harden and change its char­acter­is­tics.  If you are par­ti­cu­lar about your rosin, you might wish to change it period­ically.
     
  6. There is a myth con­cerning the colour of the rosin.  The myth is that darker rosins have more grip while the lighter rosins are harder and have less grip.  Many times a rosin is darker be­cause it has dye added to it.  Don’t trust the colour to be an in­di­ca­tion of the rosin’s char­acter­is­tics.
     

Now this is really all that you need to know, but if you want more infor­mation read fur­ther.



Basics of Rosin (Biroza)

Let us take a closer look at rosin.

The etymology of the Eng­lish word “rosin” is inter­est­ing.  Rosin is just a variant of the word resin.  Although this is ob­vious, there has arisen a slightly dif­fer­ent colour to the two terms.  Where the Eng­lish term “resin” has ac­quired a generic quality of refer­ring to al­most any gummy extract of a plant, the term rosin has ac­quired the impli­cation of refer­ring speci­fically to the refined material ex­trac­ted from conifers (e.g. pine trees).  In medieval Eng­lish this was re­fer­red to as “recyn”, “resyn”, “rosyn”, and “rosine”.  These terms were evidently der­ived from the mid­dle-French “resine” and “resin”.  Both the mid­dle Eng­lish and mid­dle-French terms were evidently der­ived from the Latin “resina”.

The etymology of the Hindu­stani “biroza” is not clear.  The term biroza (Urdu) is also called biroja (Hindi) and baroza (Punjabi).  The term biroza has generic quality about it that seems to be applicable to al­most any gum resin.

The making of rosin is inter­est­ing and has a long his­tory.  The ear­liest forms of rosin appeared to be nothing but the natu­rally weathered sap from pine trees.  How­ever for a long time, rosin has been a pro­duct of very sophist­icated agri­cultural and industrial pro­cesses.

The pro­cess of making rosin ac­tually begins with the pine trees.  Some­times live trees are tapped.  Just as toddy palms are tapped to get shendi and maple trees are tap­ped to get the sap for maple syrup, in the same way pine trees are some­times tap­ped to get their sap.  How­ever in many places the liv­ing trees are not tap­ped, but the en­tire trees are used.  It is com­mon prac­tice to grind pine wood into pulp for the paper in­dus­try.  In such si­tua­tions, a mash of ground wood is heated in giant tanks known as “digesters”; these separate the wood pulp from the var­ious oils found in the sap of the tree.  It is from this liquid extract that rosin is often ob­tained.

After the saps have been col­lected, the finer ver­sions of rosin are made by mixing the saps from var­ious other trees; these may in­clude larches, spruces and firs.  The nature of these mixes are closely guarded secrets.  These saps are then strained and heated. After they have been heated a while, the lighter tur­pentine is boiled away leaving the rosin be­hind.

The colour of the rosin will vary due to a num­ber of rea­sons.  One cause for var­iations in colour are the season in which the saps are tap­ped.  When the saps are tapped in late winter or early spring, then the rosin tends to be hard and a have a golden colour.  On the other hand if the saps are tap­ped in summer or fall then the rosin tends to be darker and gummier.  Another rea­son for the colour to be dif­fer­ent has to do with the man­ner in which the saps are heated.  It is also com­mon to add dyes to the rosin; this is gen­erally to make the rosins more ap­pealing to var­ious markets.  The con­sequence of adding dies to the rosin means that the colour of the rosin is not nec­es­sarily indicat­ive of its char­acter­is­tics.

It must be noted that a myriad of other ingred­ients may be added to rosin to alter its char­acter­is­tics.  Many times metals such as gold, silver, lead or copper are added to the rosin.  It is said that this increases the friction.  On other occasions sub­stances like bees wax are also added to the mix­ture. 

Although there are innumerable formu­lations of rosins, the var­ious mixes tend to be divided into two classes for market­ing rea­sons.  There are the ge­ne­ral pur­pose rosins, which are com­monly used for violins, and there are the bass rosins.  The violin rosins are harder and dryer while the bass rosins are gen­erally softer and stickier.

It should also be noted that there are also hypo­allergenic rosins for those who are unfor­tunate enough to be allergic to the dust from the rosin.

This is all well and good, but let us see what this has to do with the bowing of the instru­ment.


Rosin and Bowing

The physics of what goes on in the act of bowing and the ef­fects of the rosin are inter­est­ing.  At first they seem simple, but in practice there are a num­ber of very comp­lex theo­retical and prac­tical con­si­dera­tions.

In its simp­lest, the act of drawing a bow hair across a taught mus­ical string may be des­cribed as a pro­cess of “grab and release”.  It works like this.  The string is pulled laterally under the force of the friction exerted ag­ainst the string.  As the string moves laterally there is a gradual increase in tension.  At some point this lateral tension be­comes greater than the force of friction, at which point there is a sudden rebound on the part of the string.

This is where the rosin is impor­tant.  If you have ever tied to push a box across a floor, you can feel that it is much easier to keep it moving than to start it.  To put it an­other way, we can say that the resting coefficient of re­sis­tance is greater than the sliding coefficient.  The pur­pose of the rosin is to accentuate this difference.  But not every for­mulation of rosin does this in the same way.

The pro­cess of “grab and release” creates a sawtooth motion at the place where the string meets the bow.  The acoustic con­se­quen­ces of this saw­tooth motion are profound.  It tends to cause the string to produce many more over­tones than a vibrating string would normally tend to do.

At this point a lot of very comp­licated things happen.  Some of these things happen with the string (e.g., Helmholtz motion, double-slip motions), some things happen with the skin, and some things happen with the cavity of the air inside the resonator.  The comp­lex resonance of the skin and air cavities are all very inter­est­ing, but they are ac­tually tangent­ial to the topic of the rosin, there­fore we will not dis­cuss them here.  But the comp­lex motion of the string is very sig­ni­fi­cant.

The con­sequence of this unusual string motion is very pro­found.  Although we will not go into de­tails here, there is one thing that must be kept in mind.  You must be con­stantly sen­sitive to this resonance and constantly adjust your bowing to be part of it.  Never forget that the motion of the string influences the grab / release mechanism of the bow; at the same time that this grab / release motion influences the motion of the string.



What Is The “Bottom Line”

We dis­cusses bowing and rosin in great length, but as music­ians we want to know the “bottom line”.  In other words, you want me to tell you to go out and buy “such and such” rosin and all will be right with the world.  I hate to dis­appoint you, but it is just not going to happen.

The rea­sons that I cannot just recommend a par­ti­cu­lar brand, is that I do not know what you are play­ing.  A sarangi with its gut strings will cer­tainly behave dif­fer­ently from an esraj or dilruba with its metal strings.  Even within dilruba / esraj applicat­ions, I do not know what your strings are, or what key you play from.  I myself have two dilrubas and one esraj and they are all strung and tuned dif­fer­ently.  I also do not know what bowing technique you are using (i,e, do you bow with the hair flat ag­ainst the string or do you have it set at an angle).  With these myriad of variables, there is no way that I can pontificate about what rosin you should be using.

However I have given a lot of information.  I hope that this infor­mation will allow you to experi­ment with some clear con­cepts of what is going on.  Intelligent experi­mentation is al­ways better than just randomly going out and buying every rosin under the sun.

(OK, I know what you are think­ing.  You want to know what I use.  I prefer a nice, sticky, bass rosin.  I find that the light coloured, hard rosins like most violins use just does not allow me to get that rich, multi-textured sound that I like.)



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